Today we went into the desert.

We were struck by how dry and barren it is. The prevailing winds come in from the Mediterranean Sea across the coastal plains, making the land there green and productive. They go up the foothills of the central region and the gentler slopes of the mountains reaching Jerusalem on the heights at 2500 feet with rain and sometimes snow (maybe even tomorrow they say). But then the land rushes down to the lowest place on earth at 1200 feet below sea level at the Dead Sea, leaving its moisture scraped off by the mountain tops above.
Now with climate change and all the irrigation the desert is getting even drier and even the Dead Sea is dying.

But even here God breathes life.
We went to Qumran today. At Qumran there was a community (used to be called Essenes but now thought to be the Yahad) of mostly men who had left Jerusalem around 134 BC because of its corruption and established a community near the Dead Sea. Here they dedicated themselves to God, to prayer, purity, and study of the scriptures. They washed themselves in the ritual baths (mikveh) several times daily for ritual purity. They were preparing for the coming of the Messiah and the replacement of the corrupt Temple with a new and pure one.
Some scholars have suggested that John the Baptist may have lived with this community for a while with his emphasis on baptism cleansing, the coming of the Messiah and his anti-religious establishment preaching. Qumran is not far from the Jordan River where it comes into the Dead Sea and where John preached and baptized people.
The community continued until 68 AD until the Romans swept into the area to put down the Jewish rebellion of 66-70 AD. As their destruction became inevitable, the community hid their most treasured possession, scrolls of the scriptures, in jars that they put in caves. Those scrolls were hidden until 1947 when an Arab shepherd boy, looking for his sheep, threw a stone into a cave across from the Qumran ruins and heard a jar break. From that cave and others near Qumran scholars recovered the Dead Sea scrolls.

We saw some of those scrolls yesterday where they are being kept at the Shrine of the Book. The building was designed to look like the top of the jars that they were found in.

From Qumran we went to Masada.

Herod the Great had built Masada on a hill 1200 feet high as a retreat for his family in the wilderness and as a fortress to protect them from his enemies. He built it with all the amenities of royalty… Great views…

Living quarters with air conditioning (good breezes) and porches for entertaining and relaxing…

Bathhouses and saunas…


When the Jews rebelled against Rome in 66 AD, a group of rebels took Masada as a base and a fortress. After the Romans destroyed Jerusalem in 70 AD, survivors fled to Masada for safety, until 950 men, women, and children were living there at the top of the mountain.
The Romans surrounded the mountain and built a ramp to scale the hill. Finally in 73, the ramp was done and they used a battering ram to breach the wall late in one day. They decided to wait until morning to send in the soldiers. That night the 950 rebels took a vote and decided to kill themselves as free people rather than be abused, killed, and enslaved by the Romans. When the Romans entered the next morning everyone was dead except for a couple of women and children.

After Israel fought to maintain its freedom in 1948, 1967 and 1973, the army used this site to commission paratroopers. Never again! they shouted at the end of the ceremony. Never again would Israel be subjected to a Holocaust. The Masada rebels would be their models. They would give their lives to be free.

Life in the desert. Life born out of the scriptures. A life of faith in God and dedication to him, his kingdom and one another. Life that does not fear death but is willing to give it all for freedom, for the kingdom, for God.
And oh, yes. Today we also stopped at the Dead Sea, at Ein Gedi, on the way back to Jerusalem.

We went swimming… Floating, impossible to sink. Great fun. However, pictures of the swimmers have been forbidden. Sorry